I’ve owned the Bullit/Bluroc Hero 250 for over 8 months
and buying it completely blind, never having seen one or even sat on one in the
flesh, possibly gives me the right to offer a fairly unbiased review and
ownership feedback on this little retro scrambler.
I bought this bike based solely on one thing. The styling.
Not the price, not the reviews, not because I had to (I don’t sell bikes
for a living or sell anything for a living thank god). Just pure vanity - how it looked. I didn’t want an air-cooled underpowered 125,
so I waited.
In late 2020, Mooof NV (Bullit/Bluroc brand owner) ordered
from the Chinese manufacturer Jinan
Dalong, who assemble the 250cc variant of the Hero. In the 3rd lockdown of the
Coronavirus pandemic, I watched ‘motors for the masses’ YouTube video, decided
£4k was acceptable enough and ordered one.
I’ve never heard of them
Many people ask me about the bike. What is it, who made it, who are/were
Bullit? I reply with as much as I know,
but I have to explain the bike is pretty much a Chinese sourced catalogue
item. It’s even less recognisable now,
that the Bullit name was changed to Bluroc, due to a legal issue with the name
(apparently with Royal Enfield).
Despite the Internet stating Bullit’s Belgian roots, I can
find no true evidence it was actually designed there. Stepping back to the 125, you can even buy the
bikes from Alibaba in bulk! So I’m not
sure how much ‘designing’ was done at all, from our European friends.
You might get the odd person saying, “that looks the same as a Herald Maverick” – or possibly on the continent, a VerveMoto tracker and they’d be right. There are other OEM renames for the bikes from Shandong Pioneer who are owned by QinGQi group who own Jinan Dalong as well!
The frame is nearly identical to the Sinnis apache and Pulse adrenalin, but I have been unable to compare side by side of course. Mash also have their bikes produced by the same firm. Do you care though? I guess you do, but maybe not as much as me, who has the thing sat in the garage.
Mooof NV are the importers, distributors and brand owners of
Bullit – along with a few other names, so that’s the Belgian bit, but the
design is still open to question. In the
service manual, Mooof display that they own the registration, they also own the
website (check the T&C’s) but the actual user manual is littered with
grammatical errors akin to any mass produced Asian sourced bargain item, rather
than polished English as found in Mooof’s service booklet that came with the
bike. I didn’t get a user manual by the
way, but was sent a PDF a week or so later.
Specification
I will refrain from quoting the specifications of the bike,
purely as they are documented on the aforementioned youtube video, but also
from countless printed (Internet published) reviews.
It’s the same as the
125
You’ll be thinking immediately, that the bike is ‘the same
as the 125’ and you wouldn’t be too far wrong, from 20 yards. Obviously the frame is different, but the
wheels, tyres, lights etc are all from the same parts bin. The bike was constructed by a mass vehicle
manufacturer and it is to be expected that in re-inventing the wheel wouldn’t
make good wholesale business sense.
There are ‘some’ differences though, aside the engine. Little things such as the clutch cable,
speedo cable and obvious wiring. Subtly,
In the case of the speedo cable, the internal and outer length are the same as the 125. Yet the 250 has pressed ‘kinks’ into the
unions – which suggest it was an item that has been considered and revised. However the clutch ‘adaptation’
is poorly executed as you will discover.
Here are some quick highlights that you can ‘big up’ to interested parties:
- · The styling, it’s really in a world of its own to be honest. Prepare for many questions about it.
- · Value – at £4,000 (+ a little extra to get it on the road) it is good value for a bike with 2 years warranty and looks as good as it does.
- · It is light. 143kg wet is quoted, but after changing the tyres and removing the pillion parts, you can improve it a smidge.
- · It has a decent turn in and change of direction. It can be quite confidence inspiring in medium speed turns (not on standard tyres though). Because of its light weight, it is nibble in the slow speed handling circuits (enacting motojitsu for example)
- · OBD output is decent – hopefully you won’t need to look in there though
- · Nothing looks overly complicated to replace or fix. The China parts bin means you find most of the components used to build the bike on Ali-express! (E.G the radiator – a split piece unit that costs £50).
- · It’s pretty nippy and can easily keep with traffic. Even dual carriageway use.
- · It is quite frugal on petrol
- · It sounds as good as it looks. The exhaust is just a slightly different revision of the much praised 125 soundtrack.
- · ABS and LED lights – add the ‘modern’ part to this neo-retro machine.
- · The leavers are adjustable and I found no need for ‘shorty’ versions.
The 250cc engine
The engine is a 2018 designed 172MM-2. Built by CF-Moto and
is the same as used in their NK 250 and SR 250 models. They sold well in Asia
and received mostly positive reviews.
Despite having the Bullit name written on the side, the coil pack still
has CF Moto’s branding and part code clearly visible. Interestingly, the 250 uses a Bosch MAP
sensor, so that was a welcome surprise finding a branded item rather than an
unknown important component, but the TPS and inlet air temp sensor I couldn’t
track down to reputable manufacturers.
In terms of branding, CF-Moto are the Chinese partner of the
KTM’s design house Kiska. There is
partial evidence to suggest that the engine is derived from the older KTM
models sold in Asian nations, but I can’t find exact text to prove or disprove
this.
The space left in the frame by the engine placement hints
that maybe something with bigger displacement might have sat better – or maybe
this will be a future adaptation. It
doesn’t look out of place, just that it could have been bigger if it had to be.
The engine is rattily at low RPM in a high gear and causes
the bike to vibrate the front mud guard quite violently. There is enough torque to set off in second
if you’re not sure what gear you are in – the speedo won’t tell you either
(having only a neutral indicator).
At high RPM it is evident the single cylinder is not happy
and you can feel its anger by gripping the tank with your knees. At the top end of the rev range, to be
expected is just more noise and no useable power. It is not an engine to run on the ragged edge
by any means.
The engine’s sweet spot though is a decent torque curve for
such a small displacement bike. It is
readily useable from 2nd gear. Obtaining 70mph is achievable quite easily
and it has no problems holding the speed either. Given enough time, you might
hit 80. Just don’t rely on the
speedometer to tell you, you’re doing this pace.
The single, likes being in the mid-range and it even likes a
blip on the downshift – something I didn’t think single cylinder bikes were
overtly happy with.
The horsepower is enough to enjoy the bike for what it
is. It’s quick enough to keep up with
traffic and not slow enough to bore you when green laning. I’d use it cautiously for long stints on
motorways, where really this engine and bike combination isn’t suited at
all. It likes twisty back roads, the
occasional squirt off the beat and track and hovering around 60mph on B-roads.
Gearbox
It is a surprisingly comfortable gear change. Clutchless shifting at higher gears can be
difficult, but getting up to 4th, without the clutch is a doddle. Depending on the bike’s use, it might be
advisable to look at re-sizing the sprocket(s) to suit your need. For my application, the bike will sit between
30 and 60mph so is fine as it is. More
motorway action though, would definitely have me considering sprocket options. It can feel that it needs longer gearing when
at the dizzy heights of motorway speeds. Switching to a 520-39 rear sprocket, may help
the bike at the top-end (it has a 520-43 normally). I’d hazard a guess, the front sprocket would
be easier to source though.
Exhaust
The supertrapp style exhaust was a real party piece of the
125 and it’s carried across to the 250.
It makes the bike sound a bit bigger than it is, but offers a great tone
through the lower rev range. On the
overrun, the bike pops, which you can also influence by slightly advancing the
throttle whilst engine braking – not enough to re-engage momentum – just ease
the throttle back in the dead zone and hear it pop as you slow down. It’s a great quirk, especially if you
rev-match the downshifts as well.
Suspension
I like a bike that is setup, so it doesn’t pitch under heavy
front braking and straight away the Bullit from the factory or the
builder/dealer is setup ideal for me.
Granted, there isn’t much engine braking on something like this, but
what there is, doesn’t compress the front end much at all. I find the ride very compliant on the road,
however even light off-road is a bit of a bone shaker. Obviously I’ve got the bike setup for how I
use it (road riding) but it does have front adjustable pre-load on the USD’s
which is great.
The rear shock has been branded ‘fastec’ on some reviews. Unfortunately the British firm haven’t had anything to do with it, as far as I can tell – other than, they are Bullit resellers I believe (checking their instagram account). Whilst they make niche suspension components, the Bullit rear shock is actually a ‘fastace’ unsurprisingly from China. The model is a BFA02AR, with pre-load and rebound adjustment in 18 phases. The adjustability using a c-spanner (not included with the bike sadly) offers a great range and plenty of customisation for the owner. I set the static sag a few months after ownership, but it hardly needed doing.
You sit quite tall on the bike, which I really like. It's taller than an XSR 700 and MT 07. Short riders may not feel the same (under 5 foot 9).
The seat is comfortable, but I have a feeling it will start to droop in a couple of years (only a prediction). As I tend to feel I am sat quite far forward and the shape and placement of the seat tends to push you towards the tank. It's not uncomfortable or anything, just that I can foresee the front part of the seat padding getting worn, were as further back, it won't be. I've ridden straight for over 2 hours on it and I wasn't struggling to get on or off!
What you should do, if you get one
This is obviously based on my own opinions, but I find it
would enhance your ownership experience of the machine.
Primarily, I would keep this bike dry stored and used in
fair weather. The main reason being, is
the electrical issues on the 125 model.
Obviously I can’t say how the 250 will fair, stored outside or used all
year round, as this is a second bike for me.
One thing I would recommend is a shoe guard. Oxford do one for £7.99 from J&S and it will save your left boot. The shift peg is machined with a cross-hatch pattern that makes it quite coarse. Immediately this will start to mark and wear any fabric when upshifting.
Tyres
The stock tyres are Kingstone and
made from Nylon. The knobbles are
unwelcome unless you plan on using this bike for more than 50% of its life
off-road. When they are brand new, take
care to scrub them in gently. The
showroom gloss is lethal. Even when they
are scrubbed, it is unlikely to give you much confidence in the change of
direction. At slow speeds you can
obviously feel the tread blocks move, in effect almost countersteering for
you. At high speed, this converts into
vibrations. If it rains when you are out
– then just consider getting off and pushing it home. It’s not to say they are bad tyres, they’re
perfectly fine for mild off-road as the bike was styled, but if you were using
it for that purpose you’d have a more thoroughbred machine than this, surely?
To not detract from the overall look
of the bike, consider a good compromise or halfway house tyre, such as the
Scorpion, Anakee or trailrider by the big manufacturers.
I’ve not seen anyone run a true road
tyre on this type of bike. That would
possibly make it look a bit retro scrambler x-moto or something – an entirely
new category all its own!
Either way, don’t go wider than a 130 rear – or you
won’t clear the chain.
Clutch cable
The standard clutch cable is routed
to avoid the exhaust by use of a pressed angle join. This is just aft of the pivot arm on the side
of the engine. The issue, is that the
angle of the arm, tightens the clutch cable route and after an hour of riding,
you’ll have forearm pump on your left side!
Obtain a replacement without the angle and route the cable
yourself. It’ll pay dividends. Thanks to Pete English on the facebook owners
group for the recommendation. A new
cable is less than £20 and easy to replace.
Stickers
Not even the most brazen of riders
fancy turning up at a bike meet, with the term ‘hero’ printed on the side, even
if it is the name of the bike. Removing
them and adding your favourite riders number or numbers of personal
significance would be less brash.
It’s also pretty clear (barring the
Gulf 125 variant) that the colour schemes are Martini & John Player special
– so maybe pay homage to that and decorate it as such.
Get an OBD device that can read live data
The reasons for this are twofold. When you need to know what’s wrong, you will
have half and idea and also that you could possibly fix the problem yourself
instead of having to try rely on the dealer.
The dealer/support network for these bikes is a separately discussed
item.
Use the OBD when the bike works fine
– note the values output by the ECU in a variety of situations (open throttle,
cold idle, warm idle) and data log if you can.
When the bike is broken, you can compare the data. Obviously the OBD can be used for code
reading as well. Being OBD compliant
under Euro 4 regulations, the output is quite considerable, given the minimal
components on this bike.
Secure the front mud guard
Double check the front mud guard,
isn’t going to rattle against the stands that hold it on. It will wear away the paint if left
unattended. The guard isn’t the most
secure of items and its mounts aren’t thick enough to account for flex or
vibrations. I used some thick double-sided
door seal tape, to at least limit the embarrassment when I set off in a high
gear by mistake.
Check your coolant reservoir straw
Even if your bike is new – check
this. Undo the pipe from the radiator
cap (when cold) and take out the reservoir cap with straw attached. Ensure it has a hole in
the bottom. Otherwise the reservoir is
useless. Mine was still sealed and coolant pressure found another weak point and was spitting out of the hose joins.
Shorten the stand
The side stand is ridiculously
high. So tall, in fact, a stiff breeze
could probably topple the bike – it sits that upright! You’ll need to remove it, cut off no more
than half an inch, then re-weld the footplate.
Obviously not a job for everyone – but a fabricators would likely do
this for you, for the price of a pint or two.
Loctite
The exhaust heat shield has a habit
of unwinding it’s bolts. Get some Loctite
on them. They do go through heat cycles, so without that, it's inevitable, despite a strong torque value.
The not so good bits
Even
considering the things that I’d suggest you remedy, there are a few negatives
that you’ll have to live with.
·
The odometer.
It’s obviously catering for the European market, but MPH is difficult to
read (in a smaller font). It also isn’t
accurate. The technology – using a cable
speedo drive – is nearly 100 years old, is fine – so by now, us humans should have it as someway
accurate, unfotunately not. I’ve used 3
other methods to determine speed and they were all within 1mph of each other, yet
the speedo at 30mph was already 3mph off.
At 60mph the speedo was 5mph off.
Want
to keep the mileage down? Just
disconnect it! Told ya, it really is old
tech. The strange thing is, the bike has
ABS, which would be a far better way to read the speed – but alas, this is not
output from the ECU to the binnacle. If
you look behind the starter, you can see a speed sensor as well! But yet, we don’t get to use it. If I was making the V2 of this bike, I’d
change the speedo to accept the outputs and remove the old speedo cable
nonsense.
·
The odometer/binnacle. I sound like a stuck record, but it is
useless. The only thing of use is the
neutral light indicator and even that is hard to see at times. The dial isn’t angled, so it just gets direct
sunlight on it, making any warning lights difficult to see, even when
illuminated. You need complete and utter
darkness for the backlight to help as well.
Even when it does illuminate, it’s an odd blue colour – not in keeping
with anything on the bike, unless you got the Martini flavour.
· The fuel level. The technology for this is nearly as old as the speedo drive, but it isn’t perfected either. The petrol light will illuminate on/off when the bike is making start/stop motions with a ‘medium-to-low’ amount of fuel on-board. It can get very distracting and also it is overly cautious. The ECU needs to account for fluctuations and smooth out the readings, rather than being immediately reactive. It is annoying.
Because your bike looks retro means, you need to revert to the Steve
McQueen method of checking the level as well, as there is no gauge. You will look cool though.
·
The fuel cap.
Has a poor latch mechanism, that requires you to push down the fuel cap,
before it will release the key. Be
careful not to snap the key in the thing, trying to get it back on!
·
The side stand is ridiculously high, but I’ve
covered that.
·
Other bits (summarised, so I don’t kill you via
bullet points) such as the headlight switch is far too easy to flip onto full
beam (again you will struggle to notice on the speedo/binnacle that you’ve done
it). There are lots of cable ties. Build quality of decorative items such as
number roundels, is cheap and flimsy. Some of the bolts are far too easy to
snap and shear. The rear pillion bolts have snapped when removing - and I'm not Neanderthal using cheap tools or anything!
·
The loom was trapped too tight under the seat
and had rubbed the protective sheath through.
· The PDI inspection or quality control isn’t great. The rear indicator fixing mount (metal) was bent so badly, the indicator was off at an angle. This was obviously done before the plastic indicator was attached (otherwise that would have snapped easily) yet it wasn’t rectified at build.
Servicing
Once you’ve done it a few times – it’ll be second nature.
In
execution, however the situation is unproven.
Whilst I haven’t had my own issues with a Bullit retailer/dealer – there
are many on the social media groups, that have.
Stories of businesses going bust, struggling to locate the source of
problems and obtaining parts to rule things in or out.
Warranty
related issues being pursued via a ‘big’ bike retailer will have tried and
tested processes, but it’s very much a bespoke situation here. How tried and tested a 2 year
warranty would be, is not something I’d like to test. Especially if it was so bad, as to reject a
bike. Check the owner feedback on social
media and draw your own conclusion from their conclusions, but in reality pay
the deposit or value on a credit card and use Section 75 cover to help you
(Google it).
All the
negative elements to one side, I’ve landed on my feet (with a dose of luck)
with a bike that I actually like. Lets
face it, you’ll 90% be buying this, because it looks cool, despite the
negatives I’ve listed above.
It was a
gamble ordering one – having never seen or ridden one, nor the 125 version but
it has paid off so far. 24 months into
ownership, I might have a different opinion.
I can easily pick fault in the bike – it’s human nature, to focus on
them as well. But even writing them out
here hasn’t damped my enthusiasm to go grab the key and use the last few hours
of daylight.
It nips down
the b-roads, snakes in and out of traffic with ease and has enough power for its
chassis. This provides me with all the tools needed for my back road
adventures.
Initially
you’d be thinking this bike should sell to the youths with A2 licences, but it appears
not. Us ‘oldies’ will keep the miles
down, ride in fair weather only and thus likely have less issues than juveniles
who leave it outside and ride short journeys to the golden arches, on the
limiter.
